In a Newark State of Mind

It’s been over five months since we’ve posted.  Sorry

Here’s a quick photo recap of our outings…

From New York / New Jersey

Andy sitting next to the site of the 1920 bombing of Wall Street. The only reminders of the incident are the gouges left in the marble of the JP Morgan Chase bank, directly behind him.

We enjoy wandering through Lower Manhattan at night on our way back to the PATH train - we often walk through City Hall Park when the fountain is running and the gaslights are lit.  The City Hall/Chambers Street station is one of my favorite nighttime spots.  The lights have this beautiful, warm, soft quality, and the vaulted ceilings mimic the design of the long-abandoned original City Hall station that sits directly below the park.

From New York / New Jersey

From New York / New Jersey

Of course, our outings haven’t been entirely confined to nighttime Manhattan. We spent some time at Coney Island when my sister, Chelsea, came out to visit.

From New York / New Jersey

Another outing found us in West Orange, New Jersey, at the Thomas Edison National Historical Park. The US Parks Department just opened Thomas Edison’s laboratories that weekend - we poked around in the machine shop, recording studios, and chemical lab.

From New York / New Jersey

From New York / New Jersey

From New York / New Jersey

From New York / New Jersey

Apparently Edison and his crew had to shout into those giant funnels in order to create the first sound recordings (which still work to this day). It paints a funny picture in my brain when I think about it.

More adventures to come!  I started working in late August, and my day begins when I leave the house at 7:30 and doesn’t end until I get back from the gym around 8PM (assuming that the sketchy NJ Transit buses run on time).  Seriously, only in Newark does one have to HAIL A BUS.  My commute is just around an hour or so, which is not bad at all for NYC standards.  I’m enjoying my work at the US Attorney’s Office, the work stimulates my brain, and I am constantly awed by the gravity and importance of these cases that I get to assist with (mobsters and terrorists, the real criminals!).  But I digress…we’ll post some more stories and photos soon!

As a follow-up to our Queens adventure the previous week, we embarked on a Brooklyn adventure on Memorial Day weekend.  We began by leaving our typical point of departure, the Art-Deco Newark Penn Station (which is much, much cooler than the current NYC Penn Station):

From Bklyn Adventure May 2009

From Bklyn Adventure May 2009

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Before I moved out here to join Andy, I applied for over one hundred different legal and quasi-legal positions all around New York and New Jersey.  I was interviewed for approximately four.  The FBI called me regarding a Special Agent position and told me they would send information for Phase 1 interviewing, but nothing ever came of it.

One idea that I was toying with was teaching through an alternative certification program, either Teach for America or the New York City Teaching Fellows.  It wasn’t too big of a departure for me professionally, having done juvenile criminal defense, guardian ad litem work, and family law.  I’ve worked with some really screwed up kids.  Kids listen to me, I see how their mental processes work, and I can think like them if needed.  I enjoy working with them, it was the most enjoyable part of criminal defense work.  I have always wanted to be a teacher, and I figured that the teaching profession was less saturated than the legal profession.  Seeing kids and their teachers on the subway, on their way to a field trip, discussing books and ideas with their hip NYC teacher just further solidified my resolve.

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Since Andy posted the rundown of the weeks events, I thought I would post some photos, since I am unemployed until at least July and bored out of my mind.

My folks stopped by last week - they ventured out in their giant RV and camped at a park near NYC.  We spent over three days walking around the city and exploring, mainly looking for places to eat.  Andy and I found a tiny little diner a few weeks back, tucked away in the recesses of the Financial District and dwarfed by huge skyscrapers.  I dragged my folks there for an early-morning breakfast before our Ellis Island trip.  Pretty standard diner fare, and relatively cheap for a city breakfast.  I doubt that sunlight directly hits the pavement at any time around this place:

We also toted my folks to Molly’s, a very authentic Irish pub with the best burgers we’ve found in the City so far.

From New York / New Jersey

The sawdust on the floor completes the experience.

From New York / New Jersey

Molly’s isn’t far from Gramercy Park, a gated park where a statue commemorating Edwin Booth still stands.  Edwin Booth is John Wilkes Booth’s older brother - the whole family consisted of Shakespearean actors.  Interestingly enough, Edwin Booth once saved Robert Todd Lincoln (Pres. Lincoln’s son) from being hit by a train in Jersey City.  Check out Assassination Vacation by Sarah Vowell if you share our morbid interest in the families of presidential assassins.

From New York / New Jersey

My folks and I also visited the Statue of Liberty, which ended up taking nearly three hours.  We had Reserve tickets for the pedestal tour, so that entailed at least two security and bomb checks.  If you go, skip the pedestal and go to Ellis Island instead.  About all you can see from the pedestal is the Statue’s armpit:

As Andy mentioned, we ventured into flu-ridden Flushing, Queens, this weekend.  We wanted to see the abandoned relics of the 1964 World’s Fair, left to rot in the middle of Corona Park.  The area around the New York State pavilion and it’s towers is cordoned off (probably because the structures aren’t too stable anymore), but we were still able to get some photos.  The park is huge and relatively attractive - not bad for the ash dumps of The Great Gatsby.  There was a spike in crime in the park about two years ago, folks hacked to death with machetes and such.  However, the brand-spanking new Citi Field (home to the Mets) was just completed  immediately next to the park, so the park has been getting more attention and love lately.

From New York / New Jersey

From New York / New Jersey

The Unisphere is much more massive than I would have ever imagined:

From New York / New Jersey

After our trip to the park, Andy and I met up with our friend Shawn, who took us to all sorts of tiny Chinese food stands tucked away in the recesses of Flushing.  We’re lucky that he speaks Mandarin, because we would not have been able to decipher the menus and ingredients otherwise.  He explained that the various food stands were transient, moving from empty storefront to storefront, and probably are not cleared with the health department in any way.  With that in mind, we refrained from taking photos.  We really didn’t want to freak anybody out.  But the food was mighty tasty.

Carly and I have been adventuring.  In addition to finding fun things to gawk at in the greater white-flight New Jersey landscape, we have also been foraging about NYC for food and drink.

This weekend, we found Flushing Meadows, the massive park out in Queens that is most famous, recently, for being the site of the climactic battle of Men in Black.  The detritus of the World’s Fair fills the grounds, from the massive Unisphere to the weird, rusting, UFO-like pavillions on the western edge of the park.  There’s a small zoo and a bunch of fountains and man-made lakes.  Even on a Friday afternoon, it was pretty lively.  The massive, fascist statue of “inspiration” was a big draw. (”Look at his dick!  Look at his dick!”  “That’s not his dick, man, that’s a towel.”)

After that, we met up with our friend, Shawn, to get some very authentic Chinese food on Flushing’s main street.  We poked in and out of tiny restaurants and lunch counters to find a small, underground noodle shop that is probably not on the health department’s map.  It was just awesome… you grab a seat in the hallway, and they bring you a big, steaming pot of hand-pulled noodles, broth, and dumpllings.  And oohhh…. Chinese dumplings are the best.

Later in the evening, we all invaded another friend’s apartment for some drinks, Wii, and baseball.  Chuck is living the bachelor life for a few months while his wife is away, in Peru, making wedding plans.  They have been legally married for a while, now, but still have to go through the whole religious ceremony.  She’s in Lima, making sure all the plans go forward, while he is playing a lot of Xbox and watching bootlegged movies.  It was nice to just hang out, chat, have a few beers, and watch TV for a while.  Good, relaxing fun with good friends.

On Saturday, we babysat my niece for a few hours so my sister and brother-in-law could get out of the house to see a movie.  After, we grilled many foods and ate until we were bloated sea cucumbers.

Sunday was pretty much just a time to sit around and turn our brains off.  After the long week, it was all we could do.

We’re finally moved in, entirely.  We unpacked the final box on Saturday, had a housewarming party, and now I don’t know what to do with myself.  I’m in the middle of a federal background check for a job, but I don’t anticipate the job actually beginning until mid- to late summer.  So, I made strawberry preserves.

The adjustment period from slow-moving Mount Vernon to Newark/New York has been relatively brief and painless.  The one thing that bugs me is the general bitchiness of the folks around here.  It’s usually the uppity white suburban mommies with giant vehicles.  I’m glad they generally stay out of my neighborhood, although one accosted Andy in the park the other day to make sure he had a bag to clean up after the dog.  Of course we do, bitch!  We even have the little bone-shaped bag dispenser attached to our leash!  Now go back to your little manicured-lawn enclave.  Then, she ambled into her giant road-cow (mini van) and drove away.  If she is really concerned about Lincoln Park, she can help us clean up the trash and broken glass that appears every night, right where the schoolkids play in the morning.

Our neighborhood has endured hardships, but it’s coming along.  Lincoln Park is ringed by stately old mansions, which have all been transformed into multi-unit rentals, subtance abuse treatment centers, and a single charter school (another charter school is opening up around the corner this fall, right behind our building).  Folks around here are friendly, and since so many people are in recovery, there isn’t much apparent drug use around.  Our building used to be “the biggest crackhouse on the block” (according to passerby), but then it was gutted and turned into brand-new, reasonably priced apartments.  I’m quite happy with the arrangement.

The one thing that is sorely needed in Newark is a good grocery store.  We usually have to drive 15-20 minutes to find a Stop n’Shop (the NJ equivalent to Krogers or Giant Eagle), and Wegmans gives Newark a good 20-30 mile berth on all sides.  I can’t imagine what it’s like for residents without vehicles (which is the great majority of them).  The only grocery stores around are small bodegas and tiny, overpriced markets with sad-looking produce.  However, there are McDonald’s and Dunkin Donuts EVERYWHERE.  A decent grocery store within walking distance of downtown would benefit so many Newark residents of all income levels - it would be useful, and it wouldn’t have an air of gentrification about it.  Although a part of me craves a Starbucks or a smoothie place within walking distance, I hope that Lincoln Park resists the gentrification trend that railroaded the residents of Hoboken.  Most of the elderly and low-income residents of that area were slowly forced out by upscale housing developments that attracted Manhattanites searching for more space.  If that sort of thing happened in Newark, the displacement and human costs would be unimaginable.  As long as the rude suburbanites stay away from Newark, I don’t mind driving to their neighborhood to get coffee, and then getting the hell out.  Before I moved to Newark, The Plan seemed like a myth.  But now, I see why people feel that way.  Maybe the sight of me walking my big white dog is like a death knell to the folks who have lived here for generations.

So, in honor of our friend, Don, Carly and I have started re-naming our local grocery store chains and towns nearby.

For your review:

PathMark - “TrackMark”
Stop N Shop - “Slop N Flop,” “Stop N Flop,” “Slop N Slop,” etc.
Whole Foods - “Whole Paycheck”
Trader Joe’s - “Trad-ur Hoes.”

Cities:
Maplewood… an idyllic little town not far from us with dozens of cafes, cute little pizza shops, and lots of white people.  “Maplewhite.”

Westfield… a yuppie paradise with name-brand stores downtown, high-end boutiques, a really lavish looking trainstation, trendy coffee shops, and lots of white people.  “Whitefield.”

Montclair… a little grungy, but an otherwise safe and pokey suburb with flat sidewalks, a Whole Paycheck, and lots of places for dogs to run with their white owners.  “Montblanc.”

Are you starting to get how we perceive the towns around us?

Whoa!  Lots of things have happened in the last few months…

Carly packed up the house in Mount Vernon and we deeded it back to the original owners in December.  It was a pretty hectic process, cramming everything we own into a storage unit in the middle of winter, but it’s done.

We signed on an apartment in Newark, NJ at the end of the year, and I’ll be moving into it this weekend.  Carly is tentatively scheduled to move out in the beginning of March.  It’s going to be a heck of a month, as I plan to return to Ohio several times to pick up necessary items and whatever else will fit in my car and move it out to the new place.

Newark reminds me of Cleveland, especially the depressed, dark parts of Cleveland.  It’s got it’s share of post-industrial wasteland, crime, and corruption, but it’s a city on the way up.  Slowly.  The new mayor has been working hard to reduce the negative parts of the city and promote the good.  It convinced us to move to one of the redeveloped districts, which is hollowly called the “Newark Arts District,” even though the galleries and music halls are pretty rare.  The block we’re going to live on is well-lit and accessible, but on the next street over, there are buildings that look like they have been bombed.  If I walk through the neighborhood, and not on the main drag, people look suprised to see me… I’m usually the only white person around.  For several blocks.  I’m an anomaly, what can I say?

The place is not far from the train, and there are some interesting local restaurants and stores that I want to check out, so it should be an adventure.  I kind of like living in a place that’s a little run-down, because it has potential to grow.  I’m thinking of getting involved with the local city government to see if I can test out my social-gardening skills.  We’ll see how that goes.  My brother-in-law has a direct contact to the Deputy Mayor.

Carly is looking for jobs all over the greater NYC area.  There have been a few positive responses, and she has a few interviews lined up, so things are starting to look up.  I kind of dread her job search, the market is arguably worse than when I was looking… but at least we’re in a market that has not been as affected by the recent job losses as central Ohio.   At least, I hope it hasn’t been as affected… 

I want Carly to find a good job because, well, I love my job here.  It’s great.  The people are great, the work is great, everything’s great.  I just got a re-assignment to another unit, one that is kind of a step up.  They chose me because I have a law degree, and because I’ve been showing quite a bit of initiative in the office.  The supervisors seem suitably impressed with me, and at least two of them regularly fight over whether I should be re-assigned.  It’s all healthy competition and gives me quite an ego, but I’m trying not to be smug about it.

The last few months, I’ve been living with my sister and brother-in-law and their daughter, and it’s been a good time.  My sister has taken great care of me, and it’s been rewarding to spend some quality time with all of them.  My niece is adorable and hilarious.  We’re planning on regular dinners with them once Carly is local, maybe every Sunday or something.  Should be fun.

And the last thing, which is kind of sad, but has to be said… we got rid of nearly all of our pets.  The new apartment isn’t the greatest place for two big dogs and two crazy cats, so we figured we should find better homes for everyone, except Sophie.  Action Catt is living with Carly’s aunt and her boyfriend, and Petunia (Fatty Fatty Fatso Tubbalard) found a home with and elementary school teacher.  Mina is living out on a farm or something with one of Carly’s Mom’s co-workers, and apparently destroying the place already.  Everyone is pretty well situated, happy, and healthy.  Sophie, we decided, is coming with us.  She’s just the best dog in the world, and I wouldn’t trust her with anyone else.  Or rather, she wouldn’t trust anyone but us, I think.  She’ll adapt easily enough to city life.  She’s smart and quick.

As Carly attempts to categorize and pack their extensive library, she realizes that this is what happens when two philosophy/classics/anthropology majors get married and decide to go to law school.  It isn’t made easier by the fact that her husband plays multiple incarnations of Dungeons and Dragons.

So, here’s the plan:

1. Find homes for Action Catt, Petunia, and Mina, and have our worldly possessions packed up in a storage unit by January 1, assuming that we can work out a deed transfer back to Tony and Garrett.

2. If necessary, work for a few weeks and stay with the ‘rents here in Vernon.

3. Procure a small apartment in New Jersey that will let us have Sophie.

4. Take the New York and New Jersey bar exams.  Keep applying for jobs (I’ve probably applied for at least 40 so far).

5. Cross my fingers and hope for the best.

I am applying for Teach for America, just in case I can’t find a legal job.  Interviews would begin in February, and if I’m accepted, the program will begin in the summer.

I feel so much better with a plan in place now!